Europe's vision for the textile industry - away from fast fashion

The European Union, which wants to be the first continent to be climate-neutral by 2050, has a vision for textile production, which is one of the most climate and environmentally damaging sectors with extremely poor working conditions for people. In their vision, all textile products that are produced here or imported into Europe are durable, recyclable and repairable. In order to achieve this, the EU has already introduced and is in the process of drafting several laws to put a stop to the extremely environmentally damaging trend of "fast fashion".

 

Some facts about the textile sector

  • Textile production doubled between 2000 and 2015, with the fast fashion sector growing particularly strongly
  • Consumption is expected to increase by 63% by 2030, from the current 62 million tons to 102 million tons in 2030
  • This sector was the third largest source of water pollution and land consumption in 2020
  • The textile industry is responsible for around 10% of global CO₂ emissions
  • Every year, 5.8 million tons of textiles are disposed of, which corresponds to 11.3 kilograms per person
  • Of this, 87% is incinerated or ends up in landfills
  • Around 270 kilograms of CO₂ emissions per capita were caused by the purchase of textiles in the EU in 2020
  • Only 1 percent of clothes are recycled, more are thrown away than donated, which is also due to the sometimes very poor quality of the garments

The data comes from the European Environment Agency and can be found here.

 

The vision in the wording of the EU

  • all textile products placed on the EU market are durable, repairable and recyclable, made to a high degree from recycled fibers, free from hazardous substances, manufactured with respect for social rights and the environment.
  • "Fast fashion is out of fashion" and consumers benefit from high-quality, affordable textiles for longer
  • Profitable reuse and repair services are widespread
  • the textile sector is competitive, resilient and innovative, with manufacturers taking responsibility for their products along the value chain with sufficient capacity for recycling and minimal incineration and landfill.

 

 

New laws against fast fashion

The following laws are an excerpt from the entire spectrum that the EU has already introduced or is in the process of introducing.

Waste Framework Directive

These include the Waste Framework Directive, which was fundamentally revised in 2023 with a strong focus on textiles, with the obligation for all Member States to introduce a separation system for textiles by 2025 in order toestablish separate collection, sorting, reuse and recycling of used clothing across the EU.

 

Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR)

Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) is intended to guarantee that all companies selling clothing in the EU take responsibility for their products along their entire value chain, so that used clothing is resold and recycled more often instead of being disposed of.

 

Ecodesign Regulation

Already 70% of a garment'scarbon footprint is determined by the extraction of raw materials and production, which is where the 2022 Ecodesign Regulation for sustainable products comes in. It creates a framework for setting ecodesign requirements for products, including textiles, with the aim of improving their recyclability, energy efficiency and other aspects of environmental sustainability.

The ban on destroying unsold textiles is part of the Ecodesign Regulation, which still has to be officially approved by the EU Parliament and the EU member states. There is a provisional agreement (as of December 2023) that larger retailers will no longer be allowed to destroy unsold textiles in the EU in future .

 

Last year, the "Reset the Trend" (#ReFashionNow) campaign was launched across the EU to raise awareness of sustainable fashion.

 

France is a pioneer

With several laws, France has established itself as a pioneer in the fight against fast fashion and other excesses in the textile industry. For example, a law was passed in 2021 that prohibits the destruction of textiles in mint condition that have either been returned or never sold.

A few days ago, a law was introduced in the National Assembly that bans advertising for fast fashion on all channels, including influencers and other social media channels, and imposes penalties.

In addition, compensation for the environmental sin is to be levied for each item of fast fashion. This law is strongly directed against the large Asian low-cost suppliers Temu and Shein. "We are forcing suppliers to use banners on all their French online sites to draw attention to the environmental impact of their business," says MP Anne-Cécile Violland from the Horizons party, which introduced the bill.

Now the bill still has to go through the Senate.

 

Our pro.earth.conclusion:

The temptations for consumers are great, the offer enormous and just a click away. Only those who keep in mind how much human misery, chemicals, burning factories, drying up lakes and rivers due to cotton production, polluted and poisoned rivers, exports to the Global South, where the textiles then pile up in huge quantities and ruin local production, are hidden behind the fast-moving clothes, can resist these very tempting siren calls. But it is a path that we all have to walk together. The new laws, some of which are still on the way and not yet part of national law, as well as accompanying measures to prevent companies from seeking loopholes or increasing export rates to the global South, are enormously important in order to achieve the earliest possible transformation of the textile industry.

 

From green-washed fast fashion

 

Sources:

EU extended responsibility for textile manufacturers

The EU strategy for sustainable and circular textiles

Recycling Hero: EU Laws Fast Fashion

EU -#RefashionNow

SZ- Ordered to donate

Federal Chancellery - Reset the Trend

EU Environment Agency - Textiles and the Environment